Radon System Repair & Fan Replacement

Dead fan, humming pipe, or a system that never got the number down — we repair and verify radon systems from any installer, usually in one visit.

Call (701) 401-5204
Serving Bismarck, Mandan & surrounding towns
Any Brand, Any Installer
Most Repairs Same Visit
Passive-to-Active Conversions
Verified by Test

Get Your System Working Again

Tell us what the manometer shows and what the fan sounds like — that's usually enough to quote it. Call (701) 401-5204.

  • Fan replacement typically under an hour
  • Diagnostics for systems that never worked
  • Verification test included

Radon Systems Fail Quietly. Here's How You'd Know.

A radon mitigation system has exactly one moving part — and it runs every hour of every day, through Bismarck winters and summer heat, for years. When the fan finally quits, nothing dramatic happens. No alarm, no leak, no smell. The pipe just goes silent, the manometer levels out, and the house drifts back toward whatever it read before the system went in — which, in a state where 63 percent of homes test high, is not a number you want back.

The five-second habit that catches it: glance at the U-tube manometer on the pipe. Uneven fluid = suction = working. Level fluid = dead fan. If yours is level, or the fan has started growling, that's the whole diagnosis — call us.

Fan Replacement — Any Brand, Any Installer

Radon fans average about ten years of continuous service before the bearings give out. We replace all major brands and sizes, match the replacement to what your soil actually needs (which is not always what's hanging there now), reseal the couplings, and confirm suction across the slab afterward. Most replacements are done in under an hour, for a few hundred dollars parts-and-labor — the full pricing logic is on the cost page.

And yes — we service systems installed by anyone. Out-of-state franchise put it in and doesn't come back this way? Installer retired? House came with the system and zero paperwork? All normal. The system tells us what we need to know.

Fixing Systems That Never Really Worked

North Dakota doesn't license radon work, and it shows up here: systems that were installed, paid for, and never verified — and never actually got the house below 4.0. The usual suspects, in the order we find them:

Every repair ends the same way every install does: a post-mitigation verification test. If the number isn't under 4.0, we're not done.

Passive-to-Active Conversions

A lot of newer Bismarck and Lincoln construction ships with a passive radon rough-in — a vent pipe from below the slab through the roof, no fan. Passive stacks help, but in Zone 1 soil they routinely leave homes above the action level. The conversion is the easy version of our job: wire in a properly sized inline fan on the existing stack, add the manometer, verify by test. If your utility room has a capped white pipe labeled RADON, you're most of the way to a working system already.

Level Manometer? Growling Fan?

That's the system telling you it's done. One visit puts it back to work — and the retest proves it.

(701) 401-5204

System Repair & Fans — Common Questions

How long do radon fans last?

About ten years on average — some die at five, some run fifteen. They run 24/7/365, so a decade of continuous duty is genuinely good service. When one goes, replacement is a few hundred dollars and under an hour of work.

Why is my radon system loud or humming?

A healthy fan is a faint hum you forget. A loud one usually means worn bearings near end of life, a fan the wrong size for the soil it's pulling against, or hard mounting that transmits vibration into the house framing. All three are fixable — and the noise is your early warning, so don't wait for the manometer to flatline.

My post-mitigation test is still high — what now?

First, verify the system is actually moving air: check the manometer. If it shows suction and the number is still high, the design needs work — unsealed bypasses, an undersized fan, or a zone the suction point isn't reaching. We diagnose and fix systems in exactly this state, whoever installed them.

Can you convert a passive builder-installed radon system to active?

Yes, and it's one of the best-value jobs we do. Newer homes often have a passive vent pipe roughed in. Adding a properly sized inline fan and a manometer activates it — usually without any new pipe runs at all.

How do I know if my radon system is even working?

Look at the U-tube manometer on the pipe: uneven fluid levels mean suction; level fluid means the fan is dead or disconnected. That's a 5-second check — do it monthly. Then retest the air every two years, because the manometer proves the fan runs, not that your number is still low.

Tap to Call — (701) 401-5204